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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:13 pm
Posts: 67
If I don't start my TR for at least a week it is quite hardtop start. I have asked around and determined it is due to need for fuel to be pumped up to the carbies. I have installed different pump kits as I would expect the valve in the pump would prevent fuel running back. Some have said the fuel has evaporated but I am not sure. I know others have the same problem. Would an additional one way valve which are cheap and readily available sop this problem? As the lines on my model don't have any rubber hoses between pump and carbies its not too easy just to do this, so to avoid work and some expense does anyone know if this would work and where would be the best location in the line, nearer the carbies or near the pump? Or is the fuel evaporating somewhere and let me know how you fix that? Rusty


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:19 am
Posts: 180
How hard is "hard to start"? If left for more than a week mine usually takes about 6 attempts at turning twice before it fires. That would appear to be normal to me. My 1938 Chevrolet needs to have a little fuel put down the carburetor throat before starting if left. The TR is better than that. The best is the 1928 Chev which has a vacuum tank that drops fuel straight into the carburetor from above; instant. Then again that tank will evaporate off over a month. Basically the fuel evaporates off through the breathers or through the base. The former your'e stuck with, the latter you have to fix. I notice a lot of people believe in a can of "Start Ya Bastard". Others fit an electric inline pump that primes the carburetors and then they switch it off. Sounds like a lot of trouble to me. Back to my question. Regards.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 11:22 pm
Posts: 60
If you prime it from the fuel pump and it stil is hard to start then that is not your problem. I had hard starting and found out it was stale or low grade fuel that was the problem,I changed to BP 98 and she starts first turn , some fuel has ethernol or nasty additives that don't last well in our old beasts.

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:05 pm
Posts: 336
My TR2 also usually starts straight away, even after a few weeks idle. In the past starting problems were usually the state of tune rather than fuel problems. If she is in good tune even dry carbies only required a couple of cranks to get her going.
The lack of fuel in the carbies was invariably because of weeps from the seals where the bowl attaches to the body of the carbie.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 10:25 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:21 pm
Posts: 39
Hi Rusty
I have known of two cars here that have spent a lot of time chasing the problem of not starting when it turned out to be as Graham said poor fuel. So perhaps try as Graham suggests first.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:13 pm
Posts: 67
Hi again,
bonnet up and pump the fuel pump starts straight away, as when using car every day say at the National Meeting. When I disconnected the line to the carbies from the pump, not much fuel came out, remembering that a new fuel pump kit (including valves ) is all pretty new, within a year. I have tried numerous 98 fuels , no difference. I cannot believe that much fuel can evaporate from the float bowls and the line, and there aren't leaks. Just thought someone has tried one of these valves. Anyway, I've decided to rebuild the carbies while they are off the car while I do the rear crankshaft seal (Grrr bloody oil leaks). Rusty


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2016 8:57 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Nowra NSW
At least if its leaking oil. There is oil in it. Just have to top it up. Better than having no leaks and no oil in the csr after a time frame.


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 9:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:40 pm
Posts: 172
Rusty
New to this thread, been away after those frisky trout.
An electric pump is the easy and sure way out of your problem but a good original system should work OK. There are a lot of TRs out there that do not have the problem.
As suggested, the problem is most likely weeping seals and/or leaking pump valves. Stale fuel is most unlikely and I personally have had no issues with fuel, even after 4 -6 months, on any equipment. I have never used E10.
How does it start with full a fuel tank?


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:48 am
Posts: 111
I would suggest leave it for a week, then take the top off the fuel bowl and see if the level is low.

I had that problem for years and cured it by putting in electronic ignition. Maybe it is a stronger spark or maybe the old distributor was a bit dodgy. Never found out why.


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